“Ladies & gentlemen, I give you the back side of water!” Does that bring back any memories? It should. I can’t imagine that many people haven’t ridden the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland, and been on the back side of the waterfall where you get that ridiculously-corny endlessly-repeated line. Having been to Disneyland too many times (mainly care of two too-spoiled kids who think it’s some sort of right to visit Disneyland on an almost-yearly basis), that line came immediately to mind riding up the D219 road opposite Alpe d’Huez a week ago last Friday (July 22, 2011).
Wow. It seems longer ago than that. But what a great day. It had its issues; getting a flat tire on the descent, and having the tube installed then go bad as well, but for me, getting to ride a road that I’d seen from across the valley (on top of Alpe d’Huez) for so many years, well, it was one of the highest things on my “bucket list.” That probably explains why it wasn’t quite the same for my son, for whom it was just another road, perhaps interesting, but somewhat a distraction from the day’s main event (climbing Alpe d’Huez itself).
Also making this interesting is Kevin’s epilepsy; at any point on a hard climb he could possibly have a seizure that might cause him to lose control and fall over. Because of that it was important for me to be riding to the outside, keeping Kevin riding up next to the mountain and as far away from the sheer cliff (protected only by those low bricks) as possible. If Kevin did have a seizure, he knew that I was going to end up literally pushing him down into the ground; this was not the place to risk him wobbling across the road. Fortunately, I didn’t have to put that plan into effect.
Alpe d’Huez, on its own, is a fine ride, but not really enough for a full day. Spend the extra 1.5-2hrs and climb up to Villard Notre Dame, have a coke (or two) and enjoy the view before heading back into the valley and up the main attraction on the other side (Alpe d’Huez). Park somewhere near the huge Supermarket (same place the ride starts on the Googlemap at the bottom of this page), where you can load up on inexpensive food & drink & various other supplies. This puts you just a kilometer out of the center of town, and, literally, right at the very base of Alpe d’Huez.
For a detailed description of what it’s like, see the photos below. Words really can’t describe D219. Just make sure you’ve got sturdy tires, spare tubes and a working pump, because the rocks that fall onto the road are incredibly sharp. Out of maybe 10 other cyclists we saw on D219, two got flats. Er, three. I got one myself.
Specifics: Elevation at base- 2400ft.
Elevation at Villard Notre Dame- 5050ft (Alpe d’Huez is just under 6000ft)
Climbing time- 1hr 9min (with a couple stops to enjoy the view)
Climbing distance- 5.0 miles
Grade- 6-10% with a few short steeper pitches but worth the effort
Road surface- Generally good but watch for small rocks as they’re very sharp
Food & water- Available in town at the start and at the top at the cafe
If you do both D219 and Alpe d’Huez on the same day, total mileage will be a very unimpressive 32, but climbing comes in at 6200ft. We’re talking quality miles here with incredible views.
- Just found another ride report for D219 from some guys we saw on the climb that day! Even a reference to us as “yanks.” And a mention of my flat even.
- Steephill.tv has an excellent ride & video report of D219
- Another link to a ride up D219 here.
- Info from the Bike Bourg d’Oisons site here.
- More references to it as part of a ride here.
- The last paragraph of this review on lights refers to one of the D219 tunnels as being “hors categorie.”
- A search page of photos taken in the vicinity
No problem finding places to eat in Bourg d’Oison! This is a town full of shops as well as a great bicycle shop (Cycles et Sport) 
The road to Villard Notre Dame goes to the right. No sign here of its ominous nature! 
A sign warning cyclists about unlit tunnels. The warning isn’t strong enough; without lights, this ride really shouldn’t be attempted. 
The “back side of water” 
The first tunnel, approximately 1km long and curved, so you are quickly & totally in the dark. Without a light, you are off the bike and literally feeling your way along the wall. 
Not much of a “barrier” between you and… well, no way are you riding close enough to that edge to look over and find out. 
We’re not the only cyclists out today, riding ahead of the Tour de France on the nearby Alpe d’Huez. 
The second long tunnel, this one with an interesting twist- it’s got quite an uphill grade. For some reason this is something you don’t expect in a tunnel. 
The village of Cruet. One house. Kevin wonders how that rates a village? 
A waterfall seen by few, visible only by D219 (or presumably trail) 
Signs telling us we’re almost there. 
Shortly before reaching Villard Notre Dame, a great view of Alpe d’Huez across the valley. 
Upon reaching the small (15 houses?) village of Notre Dame, you find a sign for a pub/cafe down a small side street. Don’t miss it! 
This truly feels like the Restaurant at the End of the Universe, with reasonably-priced drinks & food and an incredible view. 
You order at the window and the very friendly owners bring the food & drinks to your table. 
The only low point of the journey was getting a flat tire on the way down. The small rocks are to be avoided at all costs; they are unbelievably-sharp and destroy tires.
er Map
Cool photos. I was surprised to see Kevin with a fair-sized backpack for the ride. What all was he carrying in the pack?
David: I’ve gone back and annotated the photos and cleaned things up a bit; this is such a great ride that I want to make sure I do it justice and encourage others to consider it next time they’re in the vicinity of Alpe d’Huez. Yes, Kevin was carrying the backpack with camera gear, while I had a rack carrying various other supplies for our full-day outing (remember, this is only part 1; next we would be spending the rest of the afternoon on Alpe d’Huez) including, thankfully, a spare tire. –Mike–
Hi Mik,
Looks like a lovely ride. We, too, were on Alpe d’Huez last Friday. We completed a tandem tour in the Dordogne area the first 2 weeks of July then spent an extra week in France just to ride up the Alpe on the 22nd. Got a chance to ride out to to Berarde (sp?) on Thurday. On Friday we hung out at turn 4. I am curious to know where you were?
Lynn Dexter
Lynn: Friday we rode to the top (although at 4k to go they diverted us up the service road) and then road back down to about 1.5k to see the race. We wanted to get further down the hill but they shut things down well before the race hit and there was no way to get across the street. –Mike–
Mike,
Great pictures. Thanks for sharing. Always enjoy checking out your cycling adventure pics. I’m planning a trip to France next spring for my 50th, and I’m now considering to include a bike ride just like you did, but I don’t know if I can drag my wife with me 🙂
Jun: If your wife doesn’t ride, you’ll need to figure out how to plan a couple days where she sees the sights while you go riding. What are her interests? We need to find an area where she can keep busy with something she really enjoys and preferably something that she already knows you’re not into. The she’s happy because she can do what she wants to do, while you get to go riding! –Mike–
Great pics, Mike. Biking France has now been added to my to-do list. As a matter of fact, when I mentioned it to my wife, she was supportive of the idea.