All posts by Mike

If you can’t stand the heat, stay out of France. First ride was good for getting used to the coming heatwave.

First ride for this trip, a one-way from Chambery back to Grenoble, covering 3 cols along the way.

I try to make our first ride in France reasonably creative will also making sure it’s not going to kill us. Since it comes the day after arrival, especially after arriving after 8pm local time (and for me, about 32 hours total without more than a brief catnap… if that). In the Alps, making it interesting is a bit challenging if you do a traditional loop of some sort, because the distance can get to be a bit too much. That’s where the local trains come in. You get create a very interesting, greatest-hits version of a ride, by taking the train out and riding back.

Heading to Chambery on the train

The original plan was to do a ride heading east, taking a train as far as Vizille (not really that far, maybe 15 miles, but takes the edge off the ride) and doing a half-loop that would have us coming back over the Col de Mort, the opposite direction we climbed it a few years ago. That option went off the rails when we didn’t get up until 8:30am, missing the early train, and the next one turned out not to be a train but a bus. We’ll be trying that one again tomorrow.

For today’s ride, we traveled from Grenoble to Chambery on the train, then headed up into the Chartreuse mountain range and hit up 3 “cols” (what the French call mountains)- Col due Granier, which proceeds meanly right out of Chambery, followed by the Cucheron (which doesn’t even have a col sign at the summit!) and, finally, the Col du Porte. This ride was nothing but up and down. Just 40 miles, but 40 quality miles, with over 6000ft of climbing.

The toughest for me was the Ganier, not because it’s that hard a climb, but the temps were getting up there and I was sweating like crazy, with salt pouring into my eyes. Very frustrating, because it’s a very nice climb. I think most of the issue is that I have very little acclimation this year to really warm or even hot days, so this was a bit of a rude awakening. Fortunately, I didn’t lose strength for the climbs that followed, probably because, as should be the case for all proper climbs, there was a bar/cafe at the top. The ubiquitous 3 euro coke always appreciated.

Our next official stop was in Saint Pierra de Chartreuse, about 2/3rds of the way down the backside of the Cucheron. 1.5 liter bottle water is $.25 at the casino food store. Amazing. Had a sandwich and another coke at a bakery there, enough fuel to get us up over the final climb, the Col du Port. It’s not very long, but unfortunately plagued by a whole lot of bugs that can manage about 7.8mph on the climb. Unfortunately, I can manage about 7.5mph on said climb. I did find that I could position myself just right, behind kevin, and get shielded from the worst of them.

The descent back into Grenoble should have been one long fun ride, solid downhill mile after mile after mile. Except that I got a rear flat about halfway down. Not a huge deal, but did break up the fun.

The longest day (starting with Thursday-morning’s ride and ending in Grenoble France 32 hours later)

Part of an exceedingly-long travel “day” from Redwood City to Grenoble, France

Travel days are so much fun. Getting to Grenoble to catch up with the Tour de France started Thursday morning, when I got up at 6:50am for the Tuesday/Thursday-morning ride. A slightly-abbreviated version because it seemed like it would be a good idea to take a shower before getting onto a plane… and another plane, then a train, and another train, and finally a 3rd train before finally making it to the apartment in Grenoble we’ve used as our “Alps” base the last few times.

6:50am wake up. 7:30am head out for the ride with Kevin and Steve too (on an e-bike) as well as Todd. Started out kinda slow but felt better as I climbed, which is a lot better than feeling worse at the end!

9:20am back home. Take shower. Finish a bit of packing. 10:10 Head to the airport with a stop at the shop along the way because Kevin forgot his lights. Get to the airport around 11, super-long security lines. Even the TSA line must have taken 15 minutes. Now what I’m used to, but guessing a lot of airport security staff (TSA) have been reassigned to the border.

Get to the United Club but told essentially there’s no room at the inn. Standing room only. Kevin and I leave and get some food, come back half an hour later and… not much different, but eventually some spaces open up.

Kevin was literally asleep before our flight from SFO left the ground. Wish I could do that.

1:50pm and we’re heading to Frankfurt.

12:30am California time and we’re in Frankfurt, quickly get through passport control, and have no issues with Lufthansa’s much-nicer and not-overcrowded lounge. Even had time to take a shower there.

3:45am California time and we’re on a plane to Paris.

CDG’s infamous T1 tube travel. To go down, you have to go up. Feels like Disney’s Inner Space ride.

4:45am California time and we’ve landed in Paris. 5:05am California time and we’ve got our bags & bikes. Then we’re on a pair of run-down RER trains from CDG (Paris airport) to Gare Lyon, the train station in Paris that handles Lyon and other points west.

Do you have the required intestinal fortitude for French Andouillette sausage? Yes, that’s real pig intestines you’re looking at.

Gare Lyon itself was even less fun than struggling with bikes and luggage on the RER. Unbelievably crowded, no bathrooms (construction), so we had to buy a way-overpriced and not-high-quality mean at a restaurant in the station so we could use their (run down) bathroom. OK, it wasn’t just the quality. I mis-ordered thinking I was getting the type of French sausage I like so much. Check the photo and for sure you’re going to be saying “Ewww!” I actually did try to eat some of it. This was between 9am-11am California time. We are now, or at least I am now, awake for… a very long time. And that meal seems to have ensured I’m a bit plugged up for a long time too.

So 11am next day California time and we’re on the last leg of our journey. A 3-hour train to Grenoble. High speed, but I’m having a tough time enjoying it because I’m in a sort of twilight state that won’t let me sleep but reminded that it’s not fun being awake. Even though I’d had the shower in Frankfurt, I felt pretty rank.

2am next day California time and we’ve arrived in Grenoble, walk the short distance (maybe 500 meters?) to our apartment, and settle in. Kevin gets to sleep a few hours earlier than me; I still had to plan things out for the next day (figure out where to ride, because I’d had little time to plan things prior to leaving for this trip). I finally get to sleep about 12:30am local time which is… 3:30pm in California.

6:50am day one through 3:30pm day two. So goes a 32 hour travel day. The good thing is that I hit the pillow pretty hard and didn’t wake up until just past 8am and… have felt pretty normal all day. Unfortunately, the same trick doesn’t work coming home.