Duplicating fit on two bikes

Today’s ride was the first test of our Bike Friday’s for the upcoming trip to France (July 14th). My experience commuting with my Bike Friday has shown me that something wasn’t quite right with the fit; I was having some hamstring issues that would normally indicate a seat too high, but that wasn’t the case. So I went through the process below, and what an amazing difference it made! I’ll try to get some graphics up soon. –Mike–

Part 1: Duplicating riding position on both bikes- I’ve been commuting to work & back on my own Bike Friday for quite some time now, but really hadn’t felt like my position was fully dialed in, so Saturday I had both my Madone and the Bike Friday at the shop and did full centerlines on the Madone (upon which I am extremely comfortable) and the Bike Friday. Complicating things a bit are the different pedals used on each, with Speedplay Zeroes on the Madone and Shimano SPDs on the Bike Friday. As I’ve become overly sensitive to even millimeter differences in seat height, I couldn’t just measure distance from seat to pedal, but had to take into account the differences the pedal platforms make. In the end this wasn’t difficult; I just attached shoes to each and measured my Madone from the inside of the shoe (at the insole) to the seat. And then duplicated it on the Bike Friday, taking into account a bit more sag in the Bike Friday’s more-padded saddle.

So, if you want to duplicate positioning on your bikes, here are the relevant things to measure, starting with the bike that fits best-

  • Top of saddle to inside of shoe insole, measured in line with the seat tube and the spot on the inside of the shoe exactly over the pedal spindle, with the crank also in line with the set tube.
  • Saddle setback. For this you need the bike on level ground. Drop a line from the tip of the saddle and measure exactly how far behind the bottom bracket center it falls. This is a really important measurement if you want two bikes to feel the same.
  • Nose of saddle to center of handlebar (where the stem clamps it).
  • The difference between the top of the saddle & ground, and the top of the handlebar & ground.

Beyond that you have to take into account different handlebar reach (how far forward the bar extends; in nearly every case, less is better with modern brake/shifter levers) and differences in saddle shape. In some cases it will make sense to not “play around” with the saddle much and just install identical saddles on each bike. With handlebars, you can measure the forward reach and make sure they’re similar.

That’s about it. Do this carefully and you’ll be amazed at the results.

 

Why buy your next bike from Chain Reaction?

The PDFs below will give you an idea of why so many people have been happy with their Chain Reaction bikes! We do a lot of things that surprise people, including caring about you & your bike long after you’ve handed over your credit card and we’ve given you the owner’s manual. There are significant differences between various bike shops, and you’ll pick up on this if you’ve visited a few. Fortunately, we’re in an area with a number of reputable, caring bike shops. It’s not too hard to figure out which are good & which aren’t. Perhaps the best question you can ask yourself is this- Is this a shop that’s going to take good care of me if I come back a few months down the road with a gear issue, or maybe need some help with getting rid of a pain I get in my shoulder on longer rides?

And what if you didn’t buy your bike from Chain Reaction Bicycles, and something’s not quite right about it? We’re a bike shop, so we have an obligation to try and keep your bike on the road, whether purchased from us or not. But if our backlog gets so large you’d have to wait weeks, we may refer you to Eric Fetch, also known as THE BIKE DOCTOR. For quite a few years he’s run a mobile repair operation, offering fast turnaround, high quality and reasonable rates. Call him at 408 202 8833 to set up an appointment, or email him at efetch@yahoo.com.

Does it seem strange that we’re advertising a competitor for bike service? Perhaps. But we have an obligation to the cycling community that we take seriously, and if we can’t take care of something ourselves, we’re very happy to find someone who can.

For bike fittings, we can do a very limited number of bike fittings (on bikes purchased elsewhere) on Wednesdays between 1:30-4:30pm in our Redwood City location. These have to be scheduled ahead of time, and are available only as staffing and business conditions allow (during the busier time of the year, typically from mid-March-September, we may not be able to do them at all). The cost is $50 for the first half hour, and $15 each subsequent 15 minutes. A typical fitting will involve interviewing you regarding the type of riding you do, your goals, and the issues you’re having. We’ll likely observe you on your bike as it’s presently set up, so we have a baseline. Then we may take arm, shoulder, torso, inseam & foot measurements, and make changes to your bike according to recommendations from the New England Cycling Academy’s FitKit. We will then look at you on the bike again, because measurements are just the beginning. Depending who is doing the fitting, you may or may not be set up in a trainer (I would rather observe someone doing laps in our parking lot. It’s my feeling that people tend to “perform” when set up on a trainer, trying to figure out what I’m looking for. When outside, after just a minute or two people relax and I’ll see things I otherwise wouldn’t. But that’s just me; most prefer to set people up on the trainer, feeling it’s a more controlled environment and easier to work with. –Mike–).

Just to be clear, when you buy a bike from Chain Reaction, there is no charge for fitting you to that bike, including subsequent reassessment down the road. On bikes we have sold, such service is included with the sale of the bike (but applies only to product purchased from Chain Reaction Bicycles, which includes things like handlebars & stems). We will swap out stems during the period of time where we’re getting things dialed-in (provided changing the stem doesn’t involve re-cabling the brakes and/or gears, as might be needed if someone were to go to a dramatically-taller stem than a bike would normally come with).

Our goal, when we sell a bike, is to do everything we can to make sure that bike is everything it can be. We want someone to be thinking, every time he or she walks past their Chain Reaction bike, I want to get out and ride! And doing that takes time & effort on our part. It’s worth it.

Thanks-   –Mike–